The ceremonial county of Berkshire is smaller than the historic county of Berkshire; a large portion of the area was absorbed into its northern neighbor, Oxfordshire, some time ago. Still, Berkshire has several notable historical locations that are well worth visiting, including the ruins of Donnington Castle and Reading Abbey, as well as impressive estates like Stratfield Saye House and Shaw House. These historical locations tell tales of power struggles and sieges and illustrate the vital roles that the Women’s Land Army and American forces played in the wars of this past century.
1. Discover the Military History of Stratfield Saye House, Home to the Dukes of Wellington
Stratfield Saye House sits at the heart of the Wellington Estate and, for over 200 years, has been the intimate home of the Dukes of Wellington. Prior to that, the House had a rich history of political and royal uses; originally, the manor was built by merging two older manors together sometime in 1100. In 1629, the property was sold to new owners related to the famous “father and son” prime ministers: William Pitt the Elder (1766-8) and his son William Pitt the Younger (1783-1801). The Elder was credited with establishing the British Empire, while his son holds the record for being the youngest prime minister, aged just 24.
In 1817, the 1st Duke of Wellington, Field Marshal Arthur Wellesley (1769-1852), took a liking to the estate, and the Pitt family sold the estate to him. The duke served as prime minister between 1828 and 1830 and then for a brief period in 1834. He was a key figure in the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, helping to defeat Napoleon and bring an end to the Napoleonic Wars (1803-15). Wellesley is considered one of the greatest military commanders in history; his adaptive style of warfare led to several great victories in the over 60 battles he fought during his active career.
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Upon purchasing the house in 1817, plans were drawn up for a full refurbishment, as the house was built in the 1630s; however, the duke found that he and his family were content with the existing building. In 1845, Queen Victoria (r. 1837-1901) and her husband Prince Albert stayed at the House. Much to the duke’s relief, the queen noted in her journal that “Stratfield Saye is a low and not very large house, but warm and comfortable.” Today, the house is home to the 9th Duke of Wellington, and the public is able to visit on specific open days.
2. Roam the Grounds of Reading Abbey Ruins
The Reading Abbey ruins are a spectacular collection of old stone walls and chambers that can be found in the Abbey Quarter, in the heart of one of Berkshire’s busiest cities, Reading. Reading Abbey was founded in 1120 and dissolved in 1538. Despite nearing a millennium in age, the impressive ruins still clearly mark out the south transept, chapter house, dormitory, refectory, and treasury that the monks would have once used. Now protected as a Scheduled Monument and Grade I listed building, these ruins can be explored. The chapter house, which would have served as a meeting place for the monks, is the best preserved of all. Nearby, there is a mill arch over the Holy Brook, which is the last remnant of the Abbey’s mill that was in operation right up to the 20th century.
Exploring the Abbey Quarter, which boasts various historic sites within the former grounds of Reading Abbey, visitors can find the burial place of King Henry I (r. 1100-35). The Abbey Gateway, a Grade I listed structure overlooking Forbury Gardens, has also been fully restored and now houses a Victorian Schoolroom experience. The “Reading Abbey Revealed” project, conducted between 2010 and 2021, focused on conserving and interpreting the site, and so, despite its dissolution and partial destruction during the English Civil War (1641-51), Reading Abbey remains a significant historical landmark.
Other historical places of importance and attractions in the vicinity include the Oscar Wilde Memorial Walk, which pays tribute to the renowned playwright and poet Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), an influential Irish writer who was imprisoned in Reading Gaol (Reading Prison) between 1895 and 1897. Nearby, the Riverside Museum and Reading Museum also offer insights into the area’s history, including the Abbey Quarter, Abbey Ruins, and the Norman invasion of 1066.
3. Visit the Fine Estate of Basildon Park, Which Played Important Roles in Both World Wars
Basildon Park is a historic estate with over 300 years of captivating history. It was first owned by Francis Sykes, a man who had made his fortune through the British East India Company. He purchased the estate in 1771, tore down the old house, and instructed architect John Carr to build him a mansion. Carr infused Italian Renaissance architecture styles, Classical styles, and Palladianism into his designs, resulting in the imposing Bath-stone mansion that we see today. Architect JB Papworth created the garden designs later on, in 1839.
Following the turn of the 20th century, the property passed through several different families and between tenants, military personnel, and other owners. In World War I (1914-19), the park became a 50-bed convalescent for serving personnel, seeing over 500 cases during a 13-month period. The Women’s Land Army ran the estate, established a training center for disabled soldiers, and supported the local community. Sixty women took on a variety of jobs, including cheese making, livestock husbandry, and brick making.
The estate was requisitioned during World War II (1939-45) and became an important location for the American Army. The 101st Airborne Division used the estate for D-Day training and also to house captured Italian and German soldiers. However, the estate’s important role in both world wars came at a price, and when the property was purchased in 1952, the new owners, Lord and Lady Iliffe, went to great efforts to refurbish the mansion and grounds and install a new Rose Garden. Today, it is run by the National Trust and is open to the public and National Trust members year-round.
4. “Roger That, GC!” Scramble to Greenham’s Time-Traveling Lookout
Although not as fancy as some of the mansions in the county, Greenham Common Control Tower holds plenty of stories that stretch back to the English Civil War in the 1600s and various events of military nature in the 1700s and 1800s. Hundreds of years ago, the area was a piece of common land available for common use by the local community.
A few centuries later, following the commencement of World War II in 1939 and the attack on Pearl Harbor, an airfield was built in 1942. The United States Air Force (USAF) took control of Greenham Common in 1943, and for the remaining duration of the war, ownership was handed back and forth between the USAF and the UK’s Royal Air Force (RAF).
In 1951, the control tower built for the airfield was replaced by the new Greenham Control Tower. It was used during periods of Soviet threat (1948-53) as a training base, a military mail sorting site, and for missile development. By 1992, Greenham Common was no longer used by the RAF and eventually was purchased by the local parish council in 2014. Volunteers have since worked hard to restore the property and preserve the important military heritage of the tower and common. Members of the public have been able to visit the site since 2018 and enjoy the 360-degree views over Greenham Common while learning about its history.
5. Explore 500 Years of History at the Elizabethan Mansion That is Shaw House
Shaw House is an exceptionally well-preserved Elizabethan mansion with a colorful history dating back to the 16th century. In 1554, Thomas Dolman and his family, who had grown their wealth in the cloth industry, purchased the Shaw House from the Crown for £600, equivalent to about £308,000 ($397,000) in 2024. Despite their fortune stemming from industrious means, they wished to become “landed gentry” and so had moved down from Yorkshire to make this change. In 1581, Thomas Dolman’s son built the manor as we know it today.
The house has hosted numerous monarchs, including King James I (r. 1603-25), King Charles I (r. 1625-49), King Charles II (r. 1660-85), and Queen Anne (r. 1702-14). During the First English Civil War (1642-46), Shaw House played a critical role as King Charles I’s headquarters in the Second Battle of Newbury in 1644. The mansion’s strategic location, combined with its strong defensive features, made it a focal point of Royalist defense.
Today, marks from those battles can still be seen on its walls. Despite a successful defense, the Royalists eventually lost, and King Charles I was held in custody until his public beheading in 1649. Shaw House also served as a military base during World War II (1939-45), and following restoration in 2003, it opened to the public in 2006.
6. Wander the 700-Year-Old Ruins of Donnington Castle
Donnington Castle stands atop a hill that looks out over the village of Donnington. This medieval ruin has weathered sieges, hosted Tudor royalty, and had many notable owners over the centuries. Founded by Sir Richard Abberbury the Elder in 1386, it became the property of Thomas Chaucer (c. 1367-1434), son of the English poet and author Geoffrey Chaucer (c. 1343-1400).
Royal connections to the castle begin from the very first day, as it was built under a license granted by Richard II (r. 1377 – 1399). During the Tudor period, the castle received many royal visitors, including Henry VIII (r. 1509-1547), Edward VI (r. 1547-1553), and Elizabeth I (r. 1558-1603).
In August 1642, King Charles I, who had been reigning monarch since 1625, raised an army against the wishes of Parliament. This was the commencement of the English Civil War, and Donnington Castle found itself caught up in the foray. The castle was held by the royalist Sir John Boys, who endured an 18-month siege until the end of the war in 1646 when the royalists surrendered. Like many other castles around England, the castle was subjected to demolition by order of Parliament following the end of that civil struggle. Today, only the ruins of the gatehouse and earthworks are left.
Stripped of most of its structure and left to ruin, Donnington Castle’s ownership changed hands over the next few centuries before English Heritage took up its care. The surviving gatehouse still stands a remarkable three stories tall, and the earthworks, which are easily visible, are a fascinating reminder of the year-and-a-half-siege that the castle survived over 400 years ago. Today, members of the public can visit the ruins for free.
