Every year, the county of Surrey attracts many visitors to explore and enjoy the picturesque countryside. For visitors curious about the county’s history, there is plenty to discover, from the magnificent ruins of Farnham Castle Keep, Waverley Abbey, and Betchworth Castle to the Tudor splendor of Loseley Park. The county’s industrial past comes alive at Chilworth Gunpowder Mills, while Woking Palace reveals royal connections, and Millmead Lock sheds light on a canal network that served Britain for decades. This diverse collection of Surrey’s historical sites showcases the county’s fascinating past.
1. Discover 900 Years of History at Farnham Castle Keep
At the very west of Surrey is a town called Farnham, north of which you can find Farnham Castle and Bishop’s Palace. The Norman motte and bailey castle overlooks the town, and although it has suffered the elements over the centuries, it is still a striking structure steeped in history.
Originally, the keep consisted of a tower, standing three to four stories tall, built in 1138 by the Bishop of Winchester, Bishop Henry de Blois. Henry’s brother was Stephen of Blois, King of England, who ruled until his death in 1154. Bishop Henry then became King Henry II and ruled until 1189. During his reign, he tore down the keep, leaving only the “shell keep” that is still standing today. Beyond the walls, you can find the Bishop’s Palace, consisting of several buildings that were erected and adapted between the 11th and 17th centuries, including a Norman chapel, a great hall, a stone hall, and a medieval kitchen.
Get the latest articles delivered to your inbox
Sign up to our Free Weekly Newsletter
Farham’s monastic history stretches back to 688 CE, when the King of Wessex, an Anglo-Saxon man named Caedwalla (r. 685-8), signed a charter, founding a Monasterium in parts of Farnham. This land would later be passed on to the Bishop of Winchester in 803. The diocese of Winchester grew to become one of the most powerful, important, and wealthy dioceses in all of Europe.
The castle’s location contributed to its colorful history as it sits close to both the city of London and shipping ports in the Channel. Many travelers would rest at the castle during long journeys or simply visit to enjoy sports like hunting. Notable visitors included King John (r. 1199-1216), Queen Mary Tudor (r. 1553-58), Queen Elizabeth I (r. 1558-1603), and James I, who reigned from 1567 to 1625 as James VI King of Scotland and from 1603 to 1625 as James I King of England and Ireland. Today, the castle is free to visit year-round.
2. Walk the Grounds of the First Cistercian Abbey in Britain
The rather beautiful ruins of Waverley Abbey give some idea of the grandiose structure that was part of important religious history. In 1128, the house was founded by William Gifford, Bishop of Winchester. Later on, 12 monks who had arrived from France took over and settled in the area.
They brought with them the Cistercian religious order, founding the very first monastery in Britain, Waverley Abbey. The Cistercian religion grew in popularity across southern England, and by 1187, Waverley Abbey was home to 120 lay brothers and 70 monks. By the 14th century, the community had a thriving Cistercian wool trade, an infirmary to treat locals who had fallen ill, and resting spots for weary travelers.
The abbey’s life came to an end in 1536, during the Dissolution of the Monasteries that took place across England and Wales between 1536 and 1541. An ancient Yew tree, thought to have been planted well before the period, still grows in the abbey’s grounds. Excavations have discovered the full original plans, with a church, a chapter house, monks’ dormitory, lay brothers’ quarters, and a toilet block. Today, it’s possible to visit the ruin and see the vaulted ceilings and original columns that made up the lay brothers’ quarters.
3. Step Back Into the 16th Century at Loseley House
Some ten miles away from Waverley Abbey is Loseley House. Nestled in Loseley Park, the house serves as a time capsule of 16th-century life in Britain, showing how the very wealthy and influential tier of society would have lived. The Manor of Loseley was purchased some time during King Henry VIII’s reign, between 1509 and 1547. Although a new wing was constructed in the 17th century, not much else has changed. The original inhabitants were the family of Sir Christopher More, who was the Sheriff of both Surrey and Sussex. He purchased the land, and his son poured his efforts into building the house.
Much of the stone used to erect the house was taken from other buildings, including Waverley Abbey. Sir Christopher More’s family would evolve into the More-Molyneux family, with the current owner being a direct descendant of this distinguished line. Today, visitors can explore the house and grounds, which also has a chapel. Guided tours are available to help visitors spot iconic furnishings and features, such as King George IV’s coronation chair (r. 1820-30) and a ceiling commissioned for King James I, who was, at one point, scheduled to pay the house a visit.
4. Visit St Catherine’s Priory to Discover Chapel Ruins Atop a Hill
St Catherine’s Hill can be found close to Guildford and the River Wey. At the top of the hill sits a chapel thought to have been erected in the 14th century. Records indicate that the chapel, known as St Catherine’s Priory, was likely associated with Guildford’s St Nicholas Church. It served as a chapel of ease by providing a place of worship for those who could not reach St Nicholas Church. Records also show that King Edward II (r. 1307-27) licensed a five-day fair to take place on the hill in 1308.
Excavations in 2020 uncovered evidence of a medieval shrine dated to the 14th century. The hill and chapel have been the muses and subjects of a few famous artists, including J. M. W. Turner (1775-1851) and Percy Robertson (1868-1934).
5. Find Millmead Lock, Tucked Away in the Heart of Guildford Town
In Guildford, you can discover the River Wey which snakes through the town center and serves as a recreational waterway that has been fished, used for transport, and played a part in locals’ lives for centuries. For historians, a place of significant interest can be found right in the heart of the town, tucked away under a footbridge and largely hidden from sight. Although small, Millmead Lock serves as a reminder of how Britain once used canals to provide a vital means of transportation. Voyagers could journey from the River Thames, which runs through the center of London, through Weybridge, and up to Guildford, along 20 miles (32 kilometers) of navigable water.
At its peak, the British canal network was 4,000 miles (6,400 kilometers) long and played a critical role in the Industrial Revolution (1760-1840). Following the introduction of railways, commercial traffic began to leave the canals and rivers. By 1950, commercial barges no longer traveled along the “Wey Navigation.” Today, visitors can explore the historic little town of Guildford and visit Millmead Lock.
6. Learn About the Explosive History of the Chilworth Gunpowder Mills
On the outskirts of Chilworth, nestled in Tillingbourne valley, is the historic site of the Chilworth Gunpowder Mills. Visitors can find several large millstones propped up and arranged in size order, some of the last remaining items from a history that spans over 400 years.
The mill was established in 1626 by the British East India Company, a private enterprise awarded a Royal Charter in 1600 by Queen Elizabeth I. By the turn of the 17th century, the Dutch had a monopoly over the spice trade in Indonesia. Competition between European trading companies was fraught with tensions, so the East India Company began producing gunpowder at the Chilworth Mills in 1626 to supply its forces abroad.
Over the next 300 years, gunpowder production reshaped the land. To create the traditional black gunpowder, workers would process saltpeter, charcoal, and sulfur through an incorporation mill. The mix then went through a press house, a corning house, and a stove before the powder was transferred to barrels for storage. Visitors can walk along heritage trails to discover the different areas where production would have taken place. Paper mills were operational between the 1700s and 1870s. All gunpowder works were eventually closed in 1920, and the buildings used for residential purposes thereafter were collectively known as “tin town.”
7. Wander the Ruins of Woking Palace, a Magnificent Manor House Loved by the Tudor Royals
Although named Woking Palace, records indicate that this building served as a manor house of the Royal Manor of Woking from as early as 1272. Over the years, the monarchy nominated various families to hold possession of the manor. In 1466, a royal grant led Lady Margaret Beaufort and her third husband to obtain Woking Palace. Lady Beaufort lived there until 1472. She was the mother of King Henry VII (r. 1485-1509), and both he and his son, King Henry VIII (r. 1509-47), regularly visited the palace during their lifetimes. Between 1515 and 1543, the manor underwent extensive renovations at the request of Henry VIII, resulting in the construction of a great hall, two bowling alleys, several ancillary buildings, and a large double moat.
Records indicate that in 1606, King James I visited the palace. The king made Sir Edward Zouch a Knight Marshal of Woking Palace in 1609, and in 1620, Sir Zouch was granted the full estate for a rent of £100 (the Crown was struggling financially). The king enjoyed visiting Sir Zouch, who would entertain the royal audience with “bawdy” songs, often playing the fool and hosting excellent hunting parties. By contrast, Sir Zouch was not well-loved by his tenants. It seems that his possession of the estate may have triggered the beginning of the end for Woking Palace.
In the 1620s, Sir Zouch permitted several of the buildings to be stripped to supply a new mansion nearby. Sir Zouch passed away in 1634, and by the time Charles II came into power in 1649, the palace was in a poor state. In 1660, Woking Palace was abandoned and left to rot and ruin. Today, it is situated on private land and is accessible via several walks, maps of which can be found on the Friends of Woking Place website.
8. Discover the Remains of an Old Religious Order at Newark Priory
Close by Woking Palace sits another ruin of the Newark Priory, with a history dating back to the 12th century. The priory has a rich tapestry of religious history cut short during the Dissolution of the Monasteries. Originally founded by a Bishop of Winchester during the reign of Richard I (r. 1189-99), the priory was established for Augustinian canons, known as the Canons Regular. Augustine of Hippo (354-430) wrote the Rule of Saint Augustine in 400 CE, and thereafter, Augustinians in Catholic religious orders were either Canons Regular or Friars.
In the case of Newark Priory, a congregation of Canons Regular, who led semi-monastic lives and were largely dedicated to pastoral care, ran the priory. Much of the establishment’s wealth came from non-ecclesiastic assets, such as rents from parishes in London, Rochester, and Winchester.
When Henry VIII dissolved Newark Priory, all land was passed to the Master of the King’s Horse, and all valuables in the priory were moved to the Tower of London. A cannon was supposedly used to demolish the buildings, and over the next two centuries, locals used stones from the ruins to repair roads. As Newark Priory is situated on private land, visitors cannot walk among the remarkable ruins, but they can enjoy a view from the Wey path near the Newark Lock and Newark Mill.
9. Explore the Samuelson Mausoleum, Tucked Away in the Trees
Hidden among the greenery and along a route shaded by trees, a pocket of history can be found in the form of a small mausoleum. It was built in 1919 by Sir Henry Bernhard Samuelson, 2nd Baronet, as a “Temple of Sleep” for his family. His father, Sir Bernhard Samuelson, 1st Baronet, owned the Hatchford Park estate, where the mausoleum sits, nestled in the Hatchford woodlands.
In 1920, Sir Henry Samuelson’s father, mother, and one sister, Florence, were exhumed from a cemetery in Torquay and interred in the mausoleum. In its finer days, the small building had a bronze chest tomb, doors, wood paneling, and fine inscriptions decorating the exterior. Today, much of this has been lost; the bronze chest was stolen, and the weather has worn away intricate carvings. Visitors can still explore the old temple and look for the remaining Latin, Greek, and English inscriptions carved into the stone.
10. Uncover Two Forts Built to Serve as “London Defense Positions”
Before the turn of the 20th century, France and Russia were producing warships at such a volume that concerns began to emerge about the Royal Navy’s capacity to defend the country. In response, a scheme called the “London Defense Positions” was introduced in 1888, which outlined a 72-mile (115-kilometer) long “stop-line” along which 15 “mobilization centers” were constructed. All the mobilization centers were earthwork fortifications designed to store and distribute artillery and supplies, as well as house troops. In the event of an invasion, entrenchments connecting the centers would have been quickly built. By 1889, 13 sites for these forts had been purchased.
By 1905, confidence in the Royal Navy was restored, and it was decided that the centers would no longer be of much use. The Old Fort at Box Hill is one of the few surviving buildings that has largely been unchanged since its construction over 100 years ago, and so is designated a Scheduled Monument on England’s National Heritage List. If exploring this historic site, visitors should also look for the Box Hill Stepping Stones that form a pathway across the River Mole and are considered an iconic landmark in the county of Surrey. A three-hour walk east of Box Hill Fort will take you to Reigate Fort. This fort has an interesting history; it was used as an ammunition store in the First World War (1914-19). Unlike the fort at Box Hill, Reigate Fort has undergone restoration in recent years, as it was falling into disrepair. Today, it is open for the public to explore.
11. Tour the Hidden Caves of Reigate Castle
The Reigate Fort isn’t the only fortification in the area worth visiting. At the heart of the town are the Reigate Castle Grounds, built sometime around the beginning of the 12th century. The gatehouse folly, built in 1777, marks an impressive entrance point into the area. Originally, the castle was a motte and bailey that was built of timber. It is likely that the stone curtain walls were added around one hundred years later. The castle was not only a defensive fortification but also intended to be the residence of the presiding Lord. However, following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the castle was largely left to ruin. The gatehouse folly was later built using stones from the ruins. Now, the grounds serve as public gardens, and tours are available to visitors wishing to discover the caves hidden under the castle.
12. Examine the Patchwork Ruins of Betchworth Castle
What once stood as a beautiful castle in the 11th century now stands as a patchwork ruin, slowly succumbing to the brambles and rain. The castle was the primary residence and center of administration for the manor of West Betchworth, under the control of a Norman lord called Richard de Tonbridge in 1086. What started as an earthwork fortress would evolve into a stone castle by 1379 and be remodified as a fortified house in 1448. For the following two centuries, the Browne family held possession. Following the death of the last male family member in 1690, further alterations were made in 1705 and then again in 1799. By the 1830s, the castle was largely abandoned in favor of a newer, larger property built nearby. Today, visitors can enjoy free access to explore around the castle grounds.