Is Beirut Safe? Exploring a City Shaped by Tragedy

Nestled between the ocean and mountains, Beirut has the makings of a holiday hotspot. Sun, sea, and sand are three of the most powerful draws for tourists, and Beirut has these in abundance. Less abundant, however, are the tourists themselves. Their concern: is Beirut safe? In the last half-century, it has seen civil war, conflict with Israel, the assassination of a Prime Minister, blockades, suicide bombings, and a catastrophic gas explosion. Beirut is no stranger to being rebuilt; as it emerges from financial ruin, Lebanon’s capital has struggled to make a comeback.

Part of the Ottoman Empire from the 16th century to when the Empire was divided under the terms of the Treaty of Sevres in 1920, Lebanon and Syria were placed under the so-called “French Mandate.” Beirut and the remainder of modern-day Lebanon formed the state of Greater Lebanon which, in 1926 was renamed the Republic of Lebanon.

Lebanon saw considerable fighting during the Second World War, with German forces carrying troops, aircraft, and supplies through the country to Iraq where they were fighting British forces. Recognizing the danger of Lebanon being invaded and placed under Nazi control, the British sent troops in.

This didn’t bode well with the Lebanese and calls for independence from France began to gain momentum. In 1941, Charles De Gaulle—at the time the Chairman of the French National Committee—promised Lebanon their independence. This never really happened, though, and while Lebanon was “given” independence, the government remained under French authority.

Annoyed at the lack of progress, in 1943 a new government was elected that abolished the 1920 mandate. The French authorities, understandably concerned by this act, arrested and imprisoned key members of the government and took back control. However, less than two weeks later, with growing pressure on the world stage, France gave in and released the prisoner. On November 22, 1943, Lebanon was granted independence.

The Switzerland of the Middle East

Depending on who you ask, Beirut was once the Switzerland of the Middle East, the Paris of the Middle East or both. Given their French-history, the moniker “Paris of the Middle East” takes little explanation. Beirut was partially built by the French.

Explaining the title of “Switzerland of the Middle East” means delving a little deeper into the city’s modern history. Geographically speaking, Lebanon is mountainous, and Beirut is flanked by the Mount Lebanon mountains which are, and have long been, a popular ski destination. Today, there are six ski resorts within an hour’s drive of the city.

But mountains alone don’t make Beirut comparable to the European nation. Aside from its terrain, Switzerland is known for its wealth and prosperity. 21st-century Beirut is known for its financial struggles and poverty — but as recently as 50 years ago, the story was a very different one indeed.

From its independence, right up until the mid-1970s, Lebanon became a banking hub for wealthy Arabs. Just as Europe’s richest make the most of Switzerland’s liberal taxation by opening Swiss bank accounts, the oil tycoons of the Arabian Gulf did exactly the same in Lebanon. Beirut, as the capital city, reaped the benefits.

Banks, tourists, grand architecture, and French café-culture became synonymous with Beirut. It was a prosperous city, and for a country that had been independent for only 30 years, Lebanon was doing rather well.

Lebanon, at its formation as a largely Christian country, has always been diverse and accepting of other cultures and religions. During flare-ups in hostilities between Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Lebanon has offered a safe haven for Palestinian Muslims. When tensions rise, many Palestinians often flee Gaza to Lebanon, as has been the case with the recent conflict in 2023/4. In particular, 1948 and 1967 saw a great influx of Sunni Muslims to the country, and with them came their differing views to those of the dominant Christians.

Although there were many factors that led to the civil war in Lebanon, religious differences are often cited as the main cause and an influence on other causes. When tensions rose in neighboring states, Lebanon traditionally took a more Western stance, but the Islamic immigrants who were quickly becoming a majority, looked east and sided with the Gulf states.

With growing unrest among the population and the emergence of a number of left-wing groups who sided with the Islamists, fighting broke out in early 1975. The Christian government, led by the Kataeb Party (or Phalanges in French) was growing weaker, and a newly created National Movement—a mix of leftists and Islamists—was growing stronger. On 13th April, things came to a head when the National Movement opened fire on a church in Beirut, and an all-out war commenced.

Fighting continued throughout 1975, reaching a head with the Battle of the Hotels which ran from October 1975 to March 1976. The newly opened Holiday Inn hotel, one street behind the Corniche, was the epicenter of the fighting. It was open for less than a year and was never repaired.

The structure stands, to this day, in its ruined state. Just meters away, Intercontinental: The Phoenicia was another focal point for fighting, although it was finally repaired in the late 1990s and reopened in 2000. It is now, once again, one of Beirut’s most prestigious hotels.

In June 1976, the National Movement was strengthened with the help of the Syrian government who sent 12,000 troops to support them. By 1977, fighting began to ease but left Lebanon divided in two, with Syrian troops remaining in the country. Over 60,000 soldiers and civilians had already lost their lives.

A Lebanese Front, comprising the ruling Kataeb Party along with the now-allied Liberalists laid claim to the country, while the Syrian Army retained control of other areas. Just as it looked as if a reprise was on the cards, on July 1, 1978, the Hundred Days’ War broke out in East Beirut.

The war took another 160 lives and injured hundreds more. At the same time, Israel staged an invasion. The UN called for their withdrawal and while Israel complied, they retained control of a 19-kilometer (11-mile) security zone on the Lebanese-Israeli border. Until the UN sent forces in April 1980, the Israeli army engaged in a relentless series of missile strikes and artillery bombardments against Lebanon.

On June 3, 1982, Israel staged yet another invasion, siding with the Christian militia to fend off the Syrian army. On June 15, the combined forces reached Beirut and besieged the city for eleven days.

It wasn’t until August 1982 that the outside world intervened. When they did, British, American, French, and Italian soldiers stepped in to help bring peace to Lebanon. Their initial success was short-lived, however, when the newly elected president—Bachir Gemayel—was shot dead by a Syrian terrorist just three weeks after assuming office.

Some progress was made between 1982 and 1984 with Israeli troops withdrawing and fighting becoming more localized. However, in 1985, the situation in Lebanon took a turn for the worse with the emergence of Hezbollah. Largely recognized by the Western world as a terrorist organization, but backed by many Arab states, Hezbollah was formed as a militant unit, although they are also considered a political party. Today, they hold a 12% minority in the Lebanese parliament.

Siding with Syria, Hezbollah ramped up the fighting, coming to a head in 1987 in Beirut. This fighting continued until December 1989, with some minor incidents the following year.

The end came in November 1990, thanks mostly to the Taif Agreement which was signed on November 4, 1989. This appointed a new president of Lebanon—Rene Mouawad—who served for just 17 days before being assassinated. His successor, Elias Hrawi, fared a little better and remained in power until 1998.

In January 1992, Lebanon elected a new Prime Minister, Rafic Hariri. A businessman by trade, Hariri’s election denoted an important moment in Lebanese history. He was a fresh leader, one who had played no part in the Civil War period.

There can be no doubt that he did a lot of good for the country: his aggressive economic policies cut inflation from 131% in 1992 to 12% in 1994. Lebanese banks saw significant growth and GDP began to rise. By 1998, however, Lebanon’s growth began to dwindle, and GDP fell for the first time since Hariri’s election. National debt, on the other hand, was growing, and by the time of Hariri’s resignation in December 1998, it had reached $18 million.

Despite this, Hariri was not unpopular with voters. His resignation was not over the country’s dire financial situation, but his disdain that President Emile Lahoud’s term had been extended. In October 2000, Hariri returned to office.

He spent his second tenure promoting peace, refusing to hand over Hezbollah war criminals to the United States and further developing Lebanon’s economy. In October 2004, he resigned, once again due to differences of opinion with Emile Lahoud.

On February 14, 2005, Rafic Hariri was killed in a suicide bombing in Beirut. The vehicle he was traveling in had been laced with explosives which were detonated as it reached the Corniche. 21 others were killed in the blast, and over 200 were injured.

War Again

In July 2006, Hezbollah launched rocket attacks on Israel, a long-lasting overspill from the civil war. Fighting was concentrated in the southern part of Lebanon, around Bint Jubayl and lasted for around a month, until the UN stepped in to negotiate.

Further conflict ensued in 2007 when Islamic forces clashed with the Lebanese Army. In 2008, Hezbollah seized western Beirut for a twelve-day period which saw 62 deaths.

By 2011, Lebanon had become a battleground for outside events. With the Arab Spring in full flow, and the Syrian Civil War underway, tensions between Christianity and Islam were at an all-time high. Violent clashes continued until late 2012, when Lebanon became a safe haven for Syrian refugees. To this day, around 2-million Syrian refugees call Lebanon home. The government stopped registering them in 2015, but that hasn’t stopped them arriving.

Having never fully recovered from the war, the Lebanese government looked to increase taxes to build capital. In 2019, they suggested tax hikes on fuel and tobacco, and they announced that they would implement a tax on internet-based phone calls through the likes of WhatsApp. Unsurprisingly, this was met with protests.

By this stage, the government had defaulted on its national debts and a black-market exchange rate had begun to take over from the official one. Prior to the crisis, the Lebanese Pound (LBP) has been tied to the US Dollar at a rate of $1 = 1,507 Lebanese Pounds. In early 2024, one US Dollar equaled 90,000 Lebanese Pounds. The currency has been devalued by over 90%.

Lebanon’s political scene was thrown into turmoil and Prime Minister Saad Hariri (Rafic’s son) resigned. The government was left unable to provide basic services, such as power, and today the national grid can only supply, at best, two hours’ worth of electricity per day. Businesses, hospitals and households rely on private generators. Streetlights and traffic lights are switched off and Lebanese nationals, whose savings and pensions are tied to the local currency, find themselves on or below the poverty line.

Is Beirut Safe to Visit?

Lebanon’s turbulent history may well put you off visiting. However, while the border regions with Israel are once again off limits due to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, Beirut is (normally) worlds away from any fighting or trouble.

Lebanon, at long last, has a stable government, and while there are still occasional protests due to the economic situation, these pose no risks to visitors. All major hotels and tourist attractions have private generators to ensure a continuous power supply.

Lebanese nationals are a resilient bunch, unsurprising given the country’s history, and they welcome visitors rather than pestering them for money or resources. The only beggars you will find on a visit to Beirut are Syrian refugees. They are, admittedly, fairly persistent but at worse are an annoyance rather than a danger.

If anything, Beirut’s economic struggles make it even more welcoming to tourists. Prices are low by western standards and local businesses are more reliant than ever on income from visitors. US Dollars are widely accepted, only a handful of businesses insist on payment in Lebanese Pounds.

Beirut is, without any doubt, one of the most unique cities on earth. Surrounded by natural beauty, remnants of the troubles of yesteryear sit hand-in-hand with signs that this is a city on the rebound.

The 4.8-kilometer-long (2.9-mile) Corniche stretches from the stunning Pigeon Rocks to modern Zaitunay Bay, opposite the Phoenicia Hotel. Along this promenade, the views of the Mediterranean go hand-in-hand with the diverse crowd who walk, run, or rest along it.

Hamra, Beirut’s boutique hotspot during the golden age, still holds its place as a shopper’s paradise, foodie heaven, and the center stage for the city’s nightlife. A night out in Hamra will soon lead you to forget all of Beirut’s troubles.

If remembering the past is more important to you, the National Museum, Holiday Inn, and bullet-strewn statue in Martyr’s Square are ever-present reminders of what once was.

Safety Tips

Given the history, it is hardly surprising that most Western country’s Foreign Offices have Lebanon down as posing a high risk for terrorism. While it is true that Islamist groups do target the country, their focus is not on any of the areas of Beirut that would normally come onto a tourist’s radar.

Palestinian refugee camps, the Syrian border and the southern suburbs of Beirut (around, but not including, the airport) are best avoided. Sailing in the Red Sea area is also currently not recommended due to Houthi attacks on western-flagged vessels.

When visiting Beirut, there are a few important points to remember. The key consideration you should give is to money. Credit and debit cards are not widely accepted. Most chain hotels will accept them, but as a rule expect restaurants, bars, and shops to ask for cash. While the Lebanese Pound is the official currency, US Dollars are accepted in most shops and restaurants and are often preferred.

The Lebanese Pound is rarely available outside of the country. While not a closed currency, the Lebanese Pound’s value and the general lack of tourists to Lebanon means most banks and airport currency exchanges don’t stock it. The best idea is to carry enough US Dollars in cash to cover your expenses while in Beirut. If you need to exchange them for Lebanese Pounds, use a black-market exchange on the street rather than an official government service as you’ll get far better value.

Should you wish to take some Lebanese currency with you before you leave, the best bet is to find an online bureau for change rather than expecting to be able to make the change at the airport. When leaving Beirut, try to exchange your Pound for US Dollars on the black market before heading to the airport. As a last resort, exchange them at the airport as it is very unlikely that you’ll be able to do so back home.

When visiting Beirut, it is also important to note that the economic situation is still causing shortages of essential supplies. While hotels and other businesses have generators to ensure electricity supplies, expect street and traffic lights to be turned off, so exercise the necessary caution.

If you take a prescription medication, ensure you carry enough to last the duration of your trip to Lebanon as hospitals and pharmacies are experiencing supply issues. Standard, over-the-counter medicines, such as painkillers and antihistamines can be purchased normally from supermarkets and pharmacies (but expect a slightly inflated price).

While Lebanon has a diverse and secular culture, it is important to respect local customs. Dress codes are fairly lax, but if visiting mosques or other religious sites, a degree of respect is required. Despite being more liberal than its neighbors, it is worth bearing in mind that photographing government or military buildings should be avoided as it could be misconstrued, and homosexuality is illegal and punishable with a prison sentence — in Beirut, visitors are often tolerated, but in more remote areas exercise caution and, if you’re a same-sex couple, book a twin room, or separate rooms.